Fortunately, Luang Prabang and the Mekong riverside provide plenty of quaint and handy-craft workshops for exploring on our own. In the morning, enthusiastic and on mountain bikes we overtake Lou (he’s not impressed) on the ride through the countryside to the Elephant Rescue Camp. What a ride—on the back of Bounsin, a 45 year old elephant with his Mahout who confirmed Alex was the #1 Mahout for the day. Holding on to Bounsin’s ears and tickling him with your toes helps direct his unsuspecting moves… Until he decides taking down a tree for a mid-day snack is on his agenda, hah! Thankfully, I’d finished my training and didn’t have to navigate an escalating trunk and falling branches… hold on tight Alibabba. Looks like fun!
Bounsin was our introduction to the jungles of Laos. The following day we ventured North toward Muang La. At the “Junction” (left to China, right to Vietnam) we break at the local restaurant supported by the Post Opium, Surpass Poverty Project, started in 1995 and still a work in progress. We’re keen to learn and support the initiative, however there are some strange, heavily armed people on the side of the road watching over fields as we travel toward the Golden Triangle over the next hour. Lou advises they’re an army to keep the bandits away… OK… Don’t go getting alarmed; there hasn’t been an incident in three years… hah! We headed toward China, leaving the Ho Chi Minh trails for later that week. Here, we saw first hand the differences between the Low-Landers, High-Landers and Upper-Lander/Mountain people of Laos—generally the poorest of villagers living in modest bamboo homes and most avid believers in spirits/Animisme.
Arriving at the tranquil, eight villa hide-away of Maung La Resort we enjoy an outdoor massage next to the river, natural hot springs and herbal steam in preparation for our trek into the jungle in the morning.
In Bhutan we thought our trek to Tigers’ Nest was eventful—Laos with the bicycles, elephants and now jungle hiking is right up there. Jong a local guide full of smiles showed us the way, up, up and up… 20km through a mountain village, with our picnic lunches on our backs, we finally reach the much talked about caves after breath taking views, red army ants, poisonous spiders and centipedes. OK, where is Harrison Ford? And, where is the hot spring…my quads are quivering! How does that 87 year old woman do this in her bare feet with those chickens on her head?!
In the morning, Lou is back to usher us toward the Vietnam boarder through more mountain villages and tight turns. We catch the riverboat for half a day motor down the Nam Ou River past fishing villages, virgin forest and the banks of Vietnam War history to Nong Khiaw for an overnight. One thing we’ve learned while here is Laos is that it’s best to trek with a knowledgeable guide as old land mines make it a little tricky to navigate! Luckily for us, while in town, we had a problem free walk to see one of many elevated caves where villages took shelter and lived out of sight during the war.
In the morning we drive to yes, more caves: the Pak Ou Caves (trillions of Buddha’s), at the convergence of the Nam Ou and Mekong Rivers. A river-ride down the Mekong and we’re back lunching in Luang Prabang, with an afternoon flight to Vietnam.
Sweet relief, sianara Lou J
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