Reunited!

... the Three Musketeers.

Come to Cambodia

Picturesque Cambodia, it starts with the beautiful features of its people and gains emotional stickiness with its antiquities and chilling history. Like Bhutan, there is a recurring display of high cheekbones and deep soulful eyes. Virak greets us with a toothy smile on arrival at Siem Reap, only minutes from the breath taking temples and ancient city ruins of Bayon and Angkor Wat.

Check in to Hotel de la Paix when you’re in Siem Reap. WOAH. Fantastic oasis of style smack in the centre of town! Sweet—Cambodia is a must for sooo many reasons. It’s a verb, merging the past with the present and providing all its audiences with memorable take-away bang. More equipped for tourists Siem Reap has countless little bistros/cafes—yummy fresh tastes at Chamkar (vegitarian Cham cuisine) and Kamasutra (Indian), old markets and boutiques entertain you after walking your feet off in the fields of antiquities during the day.

Don’t ask which temple is the best, just get yourself over to each of these countries and see for yourself—in Siem Reap make sure you don’t miss: Bayon Temple, Angkor Wat, Ta Phrom Temple (still mostly covered by growth) and you must make an early morning trek to Banteay Srei, a beautiful pink sandstone temple and gasp at the Khmer sculptures and the preserved carvings of Garuda, Shiva and the Nagas—all so Pretty in Pink.

Oh yeah, and allow half a day for touring the massive fresh water lake by boat. Don’t be stupid and ask about safety, life preservers and if it’s safe to sit beside the ancient and exposed car engine propelling the boat forward, just go with the flow… Past bamboo homes on stilts that reportedly move on average 8 times a year due to monsoons, typhoons, tides and anything else that huffs and puffs and blows your house down. The floating villages seem more efficient, as long as you like living on a houseboat rafted next to five others.

Tourist tip, when you’re out on the big lake and see the little girl with the python approach don’t look in her direction unless you have a dollar to keep the snake off your long boat while she encourages you to take a photo. And, if you happen to make eye contact, as the python gets closer to you… be smart, pay in full or… ouch!

After the action packed days of studying carvings and climbing through ruins our feet welcome the in-flight rest as we make our way to Phnom Pen. Meet Kol, gentle and handsome he shares the grizzly horrifying history and accounting of events during the Khmer Rouge reign. With only a day to visit the Presidential Palace, Silver Temple, Emerald Buddha and S21 Detention Centre and Killing Fields we feel anxious before we start. Kol helps us understand and digest the stats by communicating many of the facts in relation to his personal experience. “I was only a young boy when they rounded me and the other 5 and 6 year old kids up and sent us to the camp to live and learn that our people were not pure and Cambodia needed to be cleansed. Only the teachings of the Khmer Rouge are right”. “My brother, worked for the government at the time, he was 18 years old when he didn’t come home and the Khmer Rouge was ‘inviting’ all the people who worked for the government at that time to come and talk with them, we never saw him again. That was 30 years ago.”

The day was enlightening, sobering and as Alex said, “ I almost cried about 18 times today.” I think if we had moved any slower (Kol, reminded us that we had much to cover if we were going to see everything), it would have been messy. The VIP cells at S21, Building A and the photo collection of torture and ‘mug’ shots is overwhelming, only surpassed by walking in the Killing Fields. Past the trees darkly stained from countless bloody beatings to death of children and women left for dead and over the bones and shreds of clothes emerging from the dusty paths with each step that wares away the top soil that sheepishly tries to hide these sins of humanity.

As we pause and listen to Kol answer our many questions with first hand knowledge, personal experience and facts on events found in recovered records I numbly gaze at the temple to commemorate those murdered. I watch a rat run up the stairs and only hope its not able to get into the glass shrine seventeen stories high and full of skulls.

I’m confident we’re fuzzy on many of the facts after our brief day in the Killing Fields, yet I know Kol’s compassionate ability to recount the past, transform hopelessness into a national soccer career, an international relations posting and freelance tour guide for Cambodia has tattooed a memory on us for a lifetime. In the morning, as I enjoyed the sun rise over the Mekong, watched an elephant walk to work and packed for our departure I realized Cambodia was a very special place. As time passes the bonds of trust between Cambodians is rebuilt and people like Kol help foreigners and locals alike remember that life is for living…

A potent and memorable last stop on a wonderful and invigorating journey, which is only beginning to sink into our consciousness. We can hardly wait to enjoy the fruits of its subconscious effects… next?

WAHOO… Daddy and the uber-lux amenities at Sala Resort, on Mai Khoa Beach, Phuket…Merry Christmas!

Miss Saigon

Eight plus million people, scooters with more passengers and cargo than you would think possible and tinsel everywhere—HO HO HO in an 80% Buddhist culture city there were enough Christmas decorations, Santas and sexy elves to embarrass Dolly Parton's theme park.

Who knew Christmas was such a curiosity! On the streets, in the lobbies and malls people are taking photos with cute female elves, giant ‘noel’ signs and Santa look-a-likes… Well not quite! We couldn’t resist, we too took pictures of people taking pictures.

The holiday décor only enhances the already chaotic barrage of people, city districts and the sweetest beehive of ICT (Information, Communication and Technology for you rookies) and traffic gridlock we’ve seen outside of Kathmandu… What to do, Kathmandu!

The temperature is steamy, we’re guests at The Continental, Saigon’s oldest hotel with the privileged location of city centre, next to the Opera House with a pedigree of famous guests over the century—it has history and that nasty musty smell. Fortunately we’re beside the Park Hyatt, great lobby bar "far from the madding crowd." Indeed, we popped round for tea and scones at the end of day one after hours touring the monuments and sites and again for drinks after day two… Awhhhhhh.

Exploring the city’s international relations/conference landmark the President's home/office before 1975, the year of Vietnam’s independence is only the tip of the iceberg for trying to grasp the history of Vietnam. Beautiful boulevards, French colonial architecture and countless juxtaposed messages and symbols validate generations of people determined to do what ever it takes. Today, entrepreneurs are in every city district, youth are doing the café society thing on the boulevards and at the edge of the street—literally. The ring road and suburbs blur the past with the present and just out of town, past rubber plantations, water rice patties and fish farms, three levels down runs 200+km of VC (Viet Cong) tunnels that usher through tours seven days a week with sobering statistics of a people fighting for independence.

Today, there is less focus on the strife and countless wars of the past as Vietnam strives to build a bigger future—having children, strengthening its nation, embracing private businesses and promoting peaceful progress… Propelling us south to Cambodia.

3 H’s: Halong Bay, Hue and Hoi An

Day three, three hours and countless villages, coalmines, marble mountains and rice patties later and we’re boarding the Violet and setting sail on Halong Bay. A mystic haze embraces the countless outcrops creating a majestic landscape and journey unlike anything else. As the shore disappears and our Junk sails onward, slowly we become surrounded by the soldiering stones—timeless and powerful, you feel like you’re being transported to the set of Indochine. Bonjour Mme. Deneuve, c’est magnifique n’est ce pas?

As the meditative calm captures your spirit and engages your senses the Violet snakes through another series of guarding ridges protecting the quiet bay and floating village. We explore the marina museum and visit with the children “busy studying” (a.k.a. having a balloon fight) in their floating school. Floating or on stilts, in the jungle or low in the valley you feel the unity… it’s all the same, just different—more faces and wonderful memories captured.

What a stately cabin—private balcony and Jacuzzi tub…(thanks to Lou we’ve been getting upgrades left, right and centre) too bad it’s only for one night, what were we thinking?! In the middle of the night, I’m awakened by the silence, never has the sound of silence been so loud—like a film with no audio, strangely cool. In the morning the mist riddles its way through the countless limestone statues as it has for thousands of years and we hike to the elevated look out of the popular island Ti Top.

We’re on the mainland by noon and heading back to Hanoi for a little urban afternoon (shops and fine dining) before we fly in the morning to central Vietnam. The history is complicated. First the Chinese, then the French, followed by the Americans and locally there were the Cham conflicts, VC and villagers and the Royal Vietnam Government—you need one massive org chart for the history and the boarded keeps moving—by 1975 most things started to settle down and the Vietnamese are very proudly independent and… Vietnamese.

Hue, and Hoi An offer bite size experiences into Vietnamese history, culture and the discipline of survival. Hue, the larger of the two, asserts itself with the Citadel and volunteer woman’s army, The Forbidden Purple City, Temple and Palace, in addition to its picturesque boulevards and sculpture gardens initiated by the French. Just outside Hue, are the villages making incense and the famous Conical hats, which we passed on our way to the tomb of the Kings. Another day and a sunny drive along the Vietnamese beach coast past the numerous new ‘resorts’ under development and up over the mountain pass riddled with both French and American bomb shelters—it’s an ongoing landscape of juxtaposed stories. We visited Marble Mountain—great caves with Buddha’s and by early afternoon were lunching riverside in the pedestrian only centre of Hoi An. Lovely.

Hoi An was most excited that evening as Vietnam won the soccer semi-finals—scooters raged the streets with enthusiastic flag waving fans. The village on the edge of the sea has been a trading post for centuries, covered bridges, merchant homes and silk weavers keep history alive with healthy tourism today. As the party in the street died down and the last few flags motored back home we were ready to hit the hay… with early morning pastries on our mind (as they are rumored to be the best) we happily settled in for a nice long snooze.

Warm Holiday Wishes

We went into holiday mode when we landed here in Phuket... but we promise that the rest of Vietnam and Cambodia are on the way.

Stay tuned and stay warm.

Christmas cookies, stockings and even a tree... !

Gooooood Mooorning Vietnam

We arrive in Hanoi to Thuy a bright, friendly and informative guide restoring our faith in talented national ambassadors. Welcome to Vietnam.

Ha (river), Noi (inside), Hanoi: inside three rivers, the Red River being the most infamous… FYI. Cross over any of the Red Rivers’ five bridges and you’re in the ever-expanding central Hanoi. Ready for another Red River fun fact?! This one’s for pie… during the dry season the river can get as low as 1-2 meters and flood during the monsoon season to a staggering 11-13 meters deep. Needless to say, it’s important to be a good swimmer and own rain gear for navigating on your scooter.

Let’s talk about the scooter—or better yet the 3+ million scooters driving everywhere but in the lines, hah! It’s shades of Cairo, how do you cross the street without becoming a hood ornament? The secret, everyone stays in motion—bikes, scooters, cars, trucks, pedestrians, dogs, buses, oxe and cart work together, slowly finding the rhythm and groove. Hectic.

Here in the old quarter of Hanoi, much like in Kathmandu, things are happening all on the side of the street. Checked in, we venture out the front door of the tight hotel, down the alley past the market stalls in the dark, dodging between the on coming scooter lights to the third street on the right—dinner at The Green Tangerine. Tasty! What is it? Hell if I know!

Up and at it, another sunny day and we’re touring the city, our first stop the Ho Chi Minh viewing at the Mausoleum. We later learn he’d been tended to the last three months to ensure his embalming state so magnificently since 1977. Interesting… architecture too, followed by the Presidential Palace, The Museum of Ethnology (very fascinating), Museum of Literature and Confucius’ Temple plus the Thang Long Water Puppet Show… a full day followed by a walking tour through the bustling old quarter and market during peak time—more wonders for discussion: live turtles for sale. Remember those scooters we mentioned? They dominate the after work market crowd, watch out and get your scooter off my bike peddles. I’ll take the hind quarter of that BBQ dog please. Thuy was very excited to show us exactly which dogs taste the best and which were strictly for security, “the German ones” and which are just family pets. What a city, celebrating 1000 years in the making in 2012.

Impressive...

Yeow, I think we're all caught up! Currently in Vietnam and still Veggin' out.

xx

Lovely Laos and... Lou

Spoiled by the knowledgeable and attentive Nyo from Myanmar we’re now in Laos and thankful for a full agenda as Lou our guide is, well… lack luster.

Fortunately, Luang Prabang and the Mekong riverside provide plenty of quaint and handy-craft workshops for exploring on our own. In the morning, enthusiastic and on mountain bikes we overtake Lou (he’s not impressed) on the ride through the countryside to the Elephant Rescue Camp. What a ride—on the back of Bounsin, a 45 year old elephant with his Mahout who confirmed Alex was the #1 Mahout for the day. Holding on to Bounsin’s ears and tickling him with your toes helps direct his unsuspecting moves… Until he decides taking down a tree for a mid-day snack is on his agenda, hah! Thankfully, I’d finished my training and didn’t have to navigate an escalating trunk and falling branches… hold on tight Alibabba. Looks like fun!

Bounsin was our introduction to the jungles of Laos. The following day we ventured North toward Muang La. At the “Junction” (left to China, right to Vietnam) we break at the local restaurant supported by the Post Opium, Surpass Poverty Project, started in 1995 and still a work in progress. We’re keen to learn and support the initiative, however there are some strange, heavily armed people on the side of the road watching over fields as we travel toward the Golden Triangle over the next hour. Lou advises they’re an army to keep the bandits away… OK… Don’t go getting alarmed; there hasn’t been an incident in three years… hah! We headed toward China, leaving the Ho Chi Minh trails for later that week. Here, we saw first hand the differences between the Low-Landers, High-Landers and Upper-Lander/Mountain people of Laos—generally the poorest of villagers living in modest bamboo homes and most avid believers in spirits/Animisme.

Arriving at the tranquil, eight villa hide-away of Maung La Resort we enjoy an outdoor massage next to the river, natural hot springs and herbal steam in preparation for our trek into the jungle in the morning.

In Bhutan we thought our trek to Tigers’ Nest was eventful—Laos with the bicycles, elephants and now jungle hiking is right up there. Jong a local guide full of smiles showed us the way, up, up and up… 20km through a mountain village, with our picnic lunches on our backs, we finally reach the much talked about caves after breath taking views, red army ants, poisonous spiders and centipedes. OK, where is Harrison Ford? And, where is the hot spring…my quads are quivering! How does that 87 year old woman do this in her bare feet with those chickens on her head?!

In the morning, Lou is back to usher us toward the Vietnam boarder through more mountain villages and tight turns. We catch the riverboat for half a day motor down the Nam Ou River past fishing villages, virgin forest and the banks of Vietnam War history to Nong Khiaw for an overnight. One thing we’ve learned while here is Laos is that it’s best to trek with a knowledgeable guide as old land mines make it a little tricky to navigate! Luckily for us, while in town, we had a problem free walk to see one of many elevated caves where villages took shelter and lived out of sight during the war.

In the morning we drive to yes, more caves: the Pak Ou Caves (trillions of Buddha’s), at the convergence of the Nam Ou and Mekong Rivers. A river-ride down the Mekong and we’re back lunching in Luang Prabang, with an afternoon flight to Vietnam.

Sweet relief, sianara Lou J

Row Row Row Your Boat

Another domestic flight and we’re in Heho. After a short drive we reach the enchanting Inle Lake region. Boarding the long boat we leave the bustling shore and begin a journey through the reeds and floating gardens—the Venice of Myanmar.

Sustainable living at it’s best. Houses on stilts surrounded by hydroponic islands—floating fields of tomatoes, water crest and plantations of lotus. The engine cuts as two lads commence paddling our longboat silently the rest of the way into the lagoon. A respectful reception to the Inle Princess Resort and our honeymoon cabin complete with outdoor/indoor shower and my fav, mosquito nets for two… why is it we have less than 12 hours to enjoy such bliss, who planned this? Foley, you let the ball drop on this one! I want a divorce.

Twelve hours and counting. Checked in and we’re back on the boat. Enjoying our time on the lake, fishing, pagodas, the lotus weaving factory and the vegetable canoe that paddles door-to-door. While there is always more time for sights we were eager to enjoy the amenities… Ahhhhhhh, the Spa at the Inle Princess. Why not?! As if the private honeymoon cabin wasn’t lush enough, we were escorted by candlelight to a private villa beside the crackling fire… how divine. Reflexology, followed by the “four hand” massage for Foley and the always enjoyable “hot stone massage” for moi.

Morning came too soon and Nyo was ready to lead our pampered selves through more of water-world’s exquisite temples—traveling up river and up rapids we make our way to firm ground where thousands of over-grown vines and trees become one with countless 13^th century stupas. UNESCO, have you seen this place?

Me Oh My

Mandalay—where today becomes antique overnight…if in doubt when purchasing antiquities of teak and marble in South East Asia, chances are they came from Mandalay.

Skilled craftsmen proudly display both new and “old” sets of their delicate carvings and larger than life marble masterpieces. Inside you can find the pristine works of art and outside, pilled high and exposed to the elements are new works in various stages of the “antiquing” process, soon to be “relics” for sale.

Most memorable however was the short drive out of town passing as we went the moat surrounding the old palace grounds—now military headquarters—and the unforgettable signage.

With the city behind us we boarded a wooden canoe shared among friends: a monk and a sad looking man with his bike. Within seconds we were cross the river and loading into our miniature horse-drawn Cinderella-esque caleche. As we cut along the dirt road that separated the rice paddies from the rows of sweet corn we soaked in all the rural farming sights and the true antiquities that make Mandalay and it’s surrounding areas so special.

… It wouldn’t be a trip to Mandalay without doing the long walk, boat ride and sunset photo-op capturing a monk and bicycle crossing the famed U Bein teak bridge.